Oh, the fickle nature of surfing – a bad run can have you ready to quit, but fortunes (and winds) change, and you feel like you could be the next Laura Enever, a professional, sometimes blonde, sometimes blue-haired, surfer whose Instagram account makes wave-riding look as easy as walking.
It wasn’t my first time on a surfboard. I’d had dalliances with the waves before, born more from dreams of emulating the cool girls in the film Blue Crush (first seen aged 14), than any real desire for extreme sporting. It was seven years later, travelling in South America, that I had my first surf lesson. Since then, I’ve dabbled in a few classes, but I’d always been put off at the thought of a surf camp, which to me have always reeked of school trips and rickety top bunks.