“Everything we eat here is grown within eyesight,” he explains, waving over the yellow-and-terracotta houses, moss-green vineyards and olive groves banking the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Enrico introduces me to his pal, Emilio, a local winemaker, who pours a chilled glass of vino bianco from his family vineyard. Zingy and fresh, it goes well with the region’s garlicky salamis, fresh anchovies drenched in grassy olive oil and soft, freshly baked focaccia which I cram, unashamedly, into my mouth.
Over a balmy, sun-drenched afternoon, Enrico winds our small group through Framura’s dusty hamlets, past family vineyards and walled gardens sprouting great horns of trombetta squash.
I sample bee pollen and chestnut honey from Guido, a former engineer turned bee-keeper in bright yellow braces, and the silkiest pesto alla Genovese from Gastronomia Salumeria Enrica, a quaint deli in Setta.